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excellent shop-made collet chuck

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This looks fantastic. As someone new to turning I am wondering what are the benefits of this collet chuck over a scroll chuck? I am planning on building one based on the drawings in the video. Is it that it allows a deeper spigot/tenon?
I really enjoy making jigs and tools and this one looks excellent. Towards the end of the video there is a short discussion about types of woods for the shuttlecock. I believe this is cherry and another suggestion was for ash. Are there any other species of wood that someone can suggest for their ability to retain some flexibility when thoroughly dry?
Thanks
Al in Texas
 

hockenbery

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wondering what are the benefits of this collet chuck over a scroll chuck?

these are useful mostly when you can’t put a tenon on to use a scroll Chuck.

the wood jaws don’t mark the wood much often there are no noticeable marks.
You can customize the size
You can hold objects like balls.
 
Joined
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Newberg, OR: 20mi SW of Portland: AAW #21058
What Al said, BUT, the collet and work piece have to be sized within a narrow range of each other. For metal working, they are more accurate than a scroll chuck and much faster to get good centering than an independent jaw chuck. The downside is that a single collet isn't very versatile so you need a complete set to accommodate a wide range of needs. The same principles apply to woodworking. The tenon needs to be sized to match the gripping range of the collet; if you have another tenon size you need another collet.
 

Tom Gall

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Feb 20, 2013
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This looks fantastic. As someone new to turning I am wondering what are the benefits of this collet chuck over a scroll chuck? I am planning on building one based on the drawings in the video. Is it that it allows a deeper spigot/tenon?
I really enjoy making jigs and tools and this one looks excellent. Towards the end of the video there is a short discussion about types of woods for the shuttlecock. I believe this is cherry and another suggestion was for ash. Are there any other species of wood that someone can suggest for their ability to retain some flexibility when thoroughly dry?
Thanks
Al in Texas
Any fine-grained and straight-grained wood works best. Back when I did semi-production items I made 3 or 4 different sizes and used maple and yew for mine. Mine were much thinner and made to work in expansion mode (tightened into a drilled hole) rather than compression mode. If you size them correctly they will last forever .... my smallest one (1-3/8") I used for 15 years and turned well over 4.000 pieces on that thing.....and its still good to go! :)
 
Joined
Jul 10, 2017
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Windermere, British Columbia
Any fine-grained and straight-grained wood works best. Back when I did semi-production items I made 3 or 4 different sizes and used maple and yew for mine. Mine were much thinner and made to work in expansion mode (tightened into a drilled hole) rather than compression mode. If you size them correctly they will last forever .... my smallest one (1-3/8") I used for 15 years and turned well over 4.000 pieces on that thing.....and its still good to go! :)
Can you post a picture?
 
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