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Hollowing tool question. Scorp, Termite???

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I was at a local farmers market and they were demonstrating woodturning. One of the demonstrators showed me a hollowing tool that looked like a small 1/4” ring scorp. He said it was his favourite hollowing tool. I have found something called a termite, and also a “Deep Hollowing Tool” from Lee Valey that work on the same principal of what he showed me. Neither of these were like his hollowing tool. His tool had the shape of a small scorp and I don’t think it was a carbide tip.

Could anyone tell me what this tool may have been?

If you know what it is have you used one and what was your opinion of the tool?

Thanks for any assistance.
 

hockenbery

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The termite is an excellent ring tool.

ring tools and hook tools can be use to cut from the bottom of an opening to the rim.
This makes them ideal for hollowing open forms in end graIn - goblets, boxes, vases etc.

Could it have been a hook tool?
this is one Hosulak sells
F6E6A406-2E40-4807-AE31-0ECDD2669B0A.jpeg
 
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It was a complete ring about 1/4” in diameter that was part of a chisel with a about a 10” metal shaft and 12” handle. The outside was slightly convex, and the interior was tapered from both sides so you could sharpen both edges of the ring. I believe the slight convex outside would allow you to ride it like a bevel without the potential of bruising the wood. He said you sharpen it from the inside with a cone shaped stone. The metal ring was not very thick similar to a scorp. The ring was centred on the shaft. He said it was very friendly and not prone to catches. Because it formed a complete ring he said it worked well on the bottom and sides of a turning.

I had never seen anything like it before. I thought it was a ring tool but I haven’t had much luck finding a website that showed this tool.

It sounds like the termite would be worth investing in.

Thanks for the information.
 

john lucas

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Probably a hook tool. I have and occasionally use both the hook tools and termite. I much prefer the Hunter Cupped Carbide tools. They don't need to be sharpened. I will use the Viceroy or Hercules flat to waste away wood and then use them as bevel rubbing tools to leave a fine finish. I got tired of sharpening the other tools.
 

hockenbery

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It was a complete ring about 1/4” in diameter that was part of a chisel with a about a 10” metal shaft and 12” handle. The outside was slightly convex, and the interior was tapered from both sides so you could sharpen both edges of the ring. I believe the slight convex outside would allow you to ride it like a bevel without the potential of bruising the wood. He said you sharpen it from the inside with a cone shaped stone. The metal ring was not very thick similar to a scorp. The ring was centred on the shaft. He said it was very friendly and not prone to catches. Because it formed a complete ring he said it worked well on the bottom and sides of a turning.

I had never seen anything like it before. I thought it was a ring tool but I haven’t had much luck finding a website that showed this tool.

It sounds like the termite would be worth investing in.

Thanks for the information.

Your ring tool description is very much like a termite. It comes with a cone to sharpen it with.
i put my cone in a dedicated $10 harbor freight air tool die grinder.
This greatly simplifies sharpen over ONEWAYs instructions for sharpening the termite.
I just hold the tool in one hand and the die grinder in the other, press the cone into the opening and hit the paddle on the die grinder for a second. Flip the tool and repeat to sharpen the other side.
 
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Glenn that looks like it. I thought it was welded onto the end of the shaft but being replaceable is even better.

Thanks everyone for pointing me in the right direction. and for providing suggestions and options,

I will also look into Johns suggestions.
 

Emiliano Achaval

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it would be the hook because the shavings clear better.
I hear you, that's probably the reason I levitated away from the Termite, constant clogging. I bought it probably 20 years ago. I second John Lucas, HUnter tools are exceptional for end grain turning, no clogging at all.
 

john lucas

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The termite and hook tools are used as bevel.rubbing tools and wework just as well.on side grain. They excell.on end grain.
 
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I have been checking out YouTube videos on both ring and hook tools. I came across a couple of videos on how to make theses tools out of bearing races. The ring tool in the video was about an inch in diameter. It didn’t get clogged but the ring was centred on the shaft so I would think the torque would want to spin the tool in your hand. After watching the videos I was thinking of making a hook and a ring tool since I have a few old bearings kicking around. Has anyone tried making their own? If so was it difficult to determine the best angle of the bevel based on the offset from the centre of the shaft?

Another option would be to offset the ring and hook to be more centred on the shaft to reduce torque.

Having never used these tools I am analyzing the ones I have found online. I imagine the small termite rings would not have much torque and the offset on the hooks would naturally find the bevel based on their design and have a tendency to reduce torque by having the cutting edge closer to the verticals centre of the shaft when floating on the bevel.

Why not just buy one you ask... I like to be creative, I have lots of steel around, and I love to try new things. The benefit of being retired... lots of time to try new adventures.
 

john lucas

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Ring tools.and hook tools dont have any real torque. At least not the commercial tools.or my home made ones. The cut happens out near the tip.
 
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I have been checking out YouTube videos on both ring and hook tools. I came across a couple of videos on how to make theses tools out of bearing races. The ring tool in the video was about an inch in diameter. It didn’t get clogged but the ring was centred on the shaft so I would think the torque would want to spin the tool in your hand. After watching the videos I was thinking of making a hook and a ring tool since I have a few old bearings kicking around. Has anyone tried making their own? If so was it difficult to determine the best angle of the bevel based on the offset from the centre of the shaft?

Another option would be to offset the ring and hook to be more centred on the shaft to reduce torque.

Having never used these tools I am analyzing the ones I have found online. I imagine the small termite rings would not have much torque and the offset on the hooks would naturally find the bevel based on their design and have a tendency to reduce torque by having the cutting edge closer to the verticals centre of the shaft when floating on the bevel.

Why not just buy one you ask... I like to be creative, I have lots of steel around, and I love to try new things. The benefit of being retired... lots of time to try new adventures.
I would recommend buying a termite tip only and then mount on your own shaft. The standard termite tool has a shaft that is about 1/2" diameter so if you get too far from the tool rest it starts to chatter. The Woodcut is another tip that can benefit from a heaver shaft/handle. The idea to make a ring tool from a bearing race was something that I tried about 20 years ago but it didn't work out very well. The ring tool works best at an angle of about the 7:00 position but never ever at the 3/9 o'clock position. The photo shows the Termite tool and my handle then the woodcut tip on my handle and the WoodCut handle. The handle for the ring tool tip is made from 1" drill rod tapered down to about 1/2" and the woodcut tip is mounted on a hay fork tine about 1 1/8" tapered down as shown. The handles I made are about 4' long.
DSC00679.jpg
 
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Allen Lacer has a DVD devoted exclusively to making your own hook tools. He takes you through the process from forming the hook, tempering it and sharpening it. The DVD is titled "Woodturning Shopmade Tools and jigs" I forgot that it has a lot more than just hook tools. I just dug it out and will have to take another look at it.
 
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Allen Lacer has a DVD devoted exclusively to making your own hook tools. He takes you through the process from forming the hook, tempering it and sharpening it. The DVD is titled "Woodturning Shopmade Tools and jigs" I forgot that it has a lot more than just hook tools. I just dug it out and will have to take another look at it.
Many years ago after Allen moved to Minnesota he did a demo for the MN wood turners assoc. and we all made our own hook tools using water hardening drill rod. The tool works but they don't hold an edge as well as High Speed steel. Mike Hosuluk was selling a HS hook tool that works well but I don't know if he still sells them.
 
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Many years ago after Allen moved to Minnesota he did a demo for the MN wood turners assoc. and we all made our own hook tools using water hardening drill rod. The tool works but they don't hold an edge as well as High Speed steel. Mike Hosuluk was selling a HS hook tool that works well but I don't know if he still sells them.
Yes ... Michael Hosuluk's hook tools are available through the Woodturning Tool Store. Our local AAW chapter had Alan Lacer for an all-day demo and 2 days of classes a couple of years ago ... great opportunity to spend so much time with a true master!
 
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Edit- Started a new thread.

 
Last edited:
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Not very experienced with these tools. There is one difference in the tools that Don shows. The Termite and Hunter tools are designed to be used at a shear/slicing angle, and the ones with the caps/chip size limiters on top are used more like scrapers. My experience with them is that when I adjusted the chip limiter, it either took too big of a bite and would clog up, or it was so close it would barely cut. That could have been operator error. I do need to play with hook tools more. Never had a Termite. They looked interesting, but for sharpening, Oneway suggested putting the bit in a router to sharpen that inside bevel. More experimenting needed for me....

robo hippy
 
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Question...
Would a Oneway Termite ring cutter fit into a John Jordan 1/2" tool or a 3/4" tool? I have a few different JJ tool shafts and adaptors for the handles I bought for them. Can I use the different Termite cutters in the JJ tools and handles? Maybe a better question is what is the diameter of the Termite rings that fit into the tool? I am hoping to buy the cutters without buying the tool shafts.
Thanks
Al in Texas
I would suggest that you buy the complete set so that you will get the sharpening stone and the block for holding the cutter for sharpening. The standard handle will allow you to work up to maybe 6 - 8 " off of the tool rest without any vibration (this is after you master the proper presentation). The cutters all have a male end that will go into a 1/4" hole so if you want to use it with a heavier shaft it should also be tapered down on the end - see the attached photo the first is the standard shaft and the second is a 3/4" drill rod tapered down to an end similar to the standard shaft.

1625591145511.png
 
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Not very experienced with these tools. There is one difference in the tools that Don shows. The Termite and Hunter tools are designed to be used at a shear/slicing angle, and the ones with the caps/chip size limiters on top are used more like scrapers. My experience with them is that when I adjusted the chip limiter, it either took too big of a bite and would clog up, or it was so close it would barely cut. That could have been operator error. I do need to play with hook tools more. Never had a Termite. They looked interesting, but for sharpening, Oneway suggested putting the bit in a router to sharpen that inside bevel. More experimenting needed for me....

robo hippy
The woodcut tips can be controlled when the gap is large by rotating CCW till the limiter is rubbing then back till the cut is as desired.
 
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My experience tells me difficult end grain cutting, chatter and tearout can be minimized by using small nose radius tools.

My turnings are all done on CNC machines or on a lathe with a hydraulic pattern tracer. The tool is absolutely rigid and has a very small cutting edge in contact with the wood. The inserts I use are somewhat equivalent to a ring or hook tool with a 1/32" diameter (yes, not a typo, 1/32" of an inch). 1/4" round inserts like Hunter uses gave me poor results on thin or fragile turnings, too large radius of tool in contact with the work creating too much deforming force on the work resulting in chatter or tear out.

I've tried hand turning with these inserts and it does take some skill to create a smooth contour with such a small tool tip. The needed skill is the reason several turning tool makers have told me they stayed away from these inserts for hand turning tools. My thought is a less than smooth contour without chatter or tearout can be smoothed with sand paper if needed.

Aluminum cutting insert with ultra sharp edge. Not to be confused with flat top inserts of the same shape.
 

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It's been my experience to use the Termite and hook tool at a much slower speed than any other tool we use. But based on the size of curl you can get, turning time in the vessel is very similar.
 
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