I prefer the 40/40 for all of my bowl turning on the outside of the bowl, and for going down the inside wall of a bowl. You can not use it through the transition area of the bowl or for going across the bottom of a bowl unless the bowl is very flat, or you are turning a platter. Simply, it cuts cleaner. I did notice, the last time I saw Stuart demo, maybe a year ago, that he holds his tools more level as compared to the dropped handle. This is cutting more with the nose, and rolling the tool on the side rather than the flutes more up and cutting more with the wings. This is the way I have pretty much always turned when turning bowls. The 40/40 grind does take less effort to cut with, especially if you are roughing with it. Me, I do all of my roughing with scrapers, then one or two passes with the 40/40, and I am done. There is a method for doing the 40/40 grind with a jig, and I will see if I can find that link again as this came up on another forum. It involves having a 3 inch protrusion from the Wolverine 1 rather than the more common 2 inches. No clue as to how much actual difference it really makes in how effective this tool is. When turning the inside of the bowl, when I get to the transition, I switch to a 60 or 70 degree nose bevel angle, and I grind away about 2/3 of the heel, rounding it over rather than having 2 straight bevels. I don't use swept back gouges at all any more. No use for them. The only one I can think of would be for shear scraping, and I prefer a scraper with a burnished burr for that.
As for platform sharpening, once the angle is set, it is a very simple process. The trick is learning that what you do when sharpening is exactly what you do when you turn. Anchor the tool on the platform, rub the bevel, and cut. You move with your body, and not your arms. If you only turn once or twice a month, it won't be easy. If you turn a couple of times a week, it is a fairly simple process to learn.
robo hippy