Tools Arriving!!!

[odie]

Still not able to edit my posts.......

 

[odie]

Try closing your browser and then restarting it.

For reasons unknown to me, I am now able to edit my posts this morning. Bill, sorry to impact this thread with all this.......you should delete all these off-topic posts. Thanks

-----odie-----

 

[William Rogers]

I can edit mine also

 

[Bill Boehme]

For reasons unknown to me, I am now able to edit my posts this morning. Bill, sorry to impact this thread with all this.......you should delete all these off-topic posts. Thanks

-----odie-----

I found and fixed the cause.

 

[Edward Wargo]

(Ed.....use the "reply" button in the lower right corner, if you want a response directly from me. Otherwise, I may never see your post!.....)

Ed.....the best rpm for me may not be the best rpm for you. There are just too many variables, to make a statement about rpm that would be universal. However, the best rpm for me, would be the highest rpm with the least amount of felt, or "static" vibration......up to a point. There is a point where adding rpm won't be advantageous. Only you can make the determination of what's best for you.

If you want a suggested speed for your 8" Holly bowl, I suspect you may find the best rpm to be around 700-800rpm, or so......and, then to make adjustments, or "fine tune" it from there. It may be higher, and it may be lower. The first indicator is the felt vibrations. If the warp is severe, or the out-of-balance is a significant factor, then those things will come into play in making the determination. There are techniques using both gouges and scrapers for the initial truing of a warped bowl, and they may require different speeds to get the best results.

Here is an interesting thread about "vibrometer", that you may find interesting:
http://aawforum.org/community/index.php?threads/lathe-vibration-detector-ideas-please.14772/
For me, it was an "eye opener", and opened doors to my own methods of fine tuning rpm for the least detectable vibrations.....although, I suspect that many will not find this information of value, unless they have advanced their own skill levels to some degree.....

-----odie-----

Thanks odie,
I was looking for a one answer fixes all type of reply, which we all know doesn't happen very often. You caught my attention with the comment about the bowl flexing. I understand the idea of vibration being an element of the equation and appreciate the replies to my question.
Moving on to the next topic.
I recently bought the wolverine sharpening system and a couple of CBN wheels. I retired my Tormek sharpening system because of how long it takes to re purpose a tool. Now I am going through the learning curve with the Wolverine Vari-Grind jig.
The Vari-Grind jig has seven notches that change angle the tool is contacting the wheel. It is not clear to me what angle is being established at each of the notches, or at which point along the axis the notches get locked in.
Lastly, the extension of the tool from the jig, the instructions indicate a distance of 1 3/8 - 2". I started off at 1 3/4" extension and found that I was too close to the center of the wheel which caused the tool to chatter when approaching the heel of the tool. The 2" extension puts me higher on the wheel and eliminates the chatter.
I know I already said lastly but there is one more thing.
How do I measure the angle of the platform to the wheel?

 

[Mark Jundanian]

I want to throw out a couple of points for your consideration.

CBN is great for high speed steel, but should not be used for carbon steel tools such as plane blades and carpenter chisels, so it might be wise for you to keep the Tormek for non HSS tools.

The protrusion of the tool is most commonly either 1 3/4" or 2". 2" is fine, but if I understand you correctly a 1 3/4" protrusion is contacting the grinding wheel at or near the equator. That sounds very dangerous-the tool may get jamed between wheel and holder. Perhaps I misunderstand your dilemma, but consider raising the Wolverine base with a piece of plywood.

The position of the V pocket predominantly determines the nose angle. The Varigrind leg angle predominantly determines the degree of sweep in the wings. But the one setting will effect the other.

Here is a web site that I think offers a good explanation. Look at how to set up the wolverine with a grinder, and then the separate discussion of the Varigrind jig.

https://turnawoodbowl.com/category/sharpening/

As to the question of setting up platform for a specific angle there are various set up jigs available, or you can use the marker method.

 

[odie]

Thanks odie,
I was looking for a one answer fixes all type of reply, which we all know doesn't happen very often. You caught my attention with the comment about the bowl flexing. I understand the idea of vibration being an element of the equation and appreciate the replies to my question.
Moving on to the next topic.
I recently bought the wolverine sharpening system and a couple of CBN wheels. I retired my Tormek sharpening system because of how long it takes to re purpose a tool. Now I am going through the learning curve with the Wolverine Vari-Grind jig.
The Vari-Grind jig has seven notches that change angle the tool is contacting the wheel. It is not clear to me what angle is being established at each of the notches, or at which point along the axis the notches get locked in.
Lastly, the extension of the tool from the jig, the instructions indicate a distance of 1 3/8 - 2". I started off at 1 3/4" extension and found that I was too close to the center of the wheel which caused the tool to chatter when approaching the heel of the tool. The 2" extension puts me higher on the wheel and eliminates the chatter.
I know I already said lastly but there is one more thing.
How do I measure the angle of the platform to the wheel?

You bet, Edward......

There is a wealth of information here on sweptback grinds using the Wolverine vari-grind jig. Stand by for it!

Although I used the vari-grind jig for a couple of decades, I find myself using it very infrequently in recent years. My opinions on these grinds do not follow the more common thinking by the great majority of woodturners. I still use the platform and v-arm quite a bit....and the skew jig for skews.

As for the vibro-meter......for my purposes, I find this very new concept to be very useful to me and my style of turning.

Good turning to you!

-----odie-----

 

[robo hippy]

I want to throw out a couple of points for your consideration.

CBN is great for high speed steel, but should not be used for carbon steel tools such as plane blades and carpenter chisels, so it might be wise for you to keep the Tormek for non HSS tools.

Actually, CBN is fine for any 'hardened' steel or metal. This does include bench chisels and plane irons, though you may not want to sharpen a fine plane iron on the coarser CBN wheels. A lawn mower blade is softer metal, and not hardened, and that is what can load up your CBN wheels, along with copper, brass, aluminum, and standard sheet stock.

robo hippy

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

Thanks odie,

The Vari-Grind jig has seven notches that change angle the tool is contacting the wheel. It is not clear to me what angle is being established at each of the notches, or at which point along the axis the notches get locked in.
Lastly, the extension of the tool from the jig, the instructions indicate a distance of 1 3/8 - 2". I started off at 1 3/4" extension and found that I was too close to the center of the wheel which caused the tool to chatter when approaching the heel of the tool. The 2" extension puts me higher on the wheel and eliminates the chatter.
I know I already said lastly but there is one more thing.
How do I measure the angle of the platform to the wheel?

Here is a link to a video and a sheet to set your Jig by Doug Thompson. This will give you most of the info you need.
http://thompsonlathetools.com/sharpening/