Hi Michael. I have used a few different ones and have settled on Helicon Focus (heliconfocus.com). I got the lifetime Pro package.
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Getting Better Photos
- Thread starter Aaron Harris
- Start date
I use Google Photos. The photos from my phone are automatically uploaded to Photos. Then I can peruse them on my PC. If you have an iPhone, you can still use Google Photos but Apple may have something similar/better.
I have the same problem! Smart phone ... dumb operator/owner!
Another problem I have is that all the Photos©️ on my computer show up on my iPhone, but none of the photos I take on the phone show up on my computer. Frustrating!!! I assume it is because my computer is too old (no updates available) but don't really know for sure.
I haven't used an iPhone for years, but iTunes sync was one of the worst experiences I've had as a user.
We could always do a Zoom meeting. I'd be interested.
My Fuji MILC has focus stacking as an option in the bracketing menu. I’ve used Affinity Photo to merge the pictures. It’s quite affordable as I remember, certainly much cheaper than some of the stacking only software out there and it can do so much more.
Affinity Photo – award-winning photo editing software
The only fully-loaded photo editor integrated across macOS, Windows and iPad, Affinity Photo is the first choice of millions of professionals around the world.
affinity.serif.com
With an f-stop of 18 or 20 I have never had a problem getting the entire piece of a turning in sharp focus. Those f-stops keep the depth of field more than enough even for the biggest bowl.
Many years ago I used to assume that the smaller the aperture the better the picture would be. Assuming you actually wanted greater depth of field. I managed to shoot lots of pictures at f16 or even f22 on a sunny day.
More recently though I’ve been reading that the “sweet spot” of many lenses, yielding the best definition and contrast etc, is often around f8 or even wider.
I rarely need to concern myself with depth of field though as most of my pictures are taken with an iPad. When I’ve taken photos of miniature stuff though I resort to the Fuji and use focus stacking. A small aperture hasn’t been good enough for me for small stuff.
More recently though I’ve been reading that the “sweet spot” of many lenses, yielding the best definition and contrast etc, is often around f8 or even wider.
I rarely need to concern myself with depth of field though as most of my pictures are taken with an iPad. When I’ve taken photos of miniature stuff though I resort to the Fuji and use focus stacking. A small aperture hasn’t been good enough for me for small stuff.
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
That "sweet spot" is such a minor thing. Depth of field is much more important. I use to use a shallower depth of field to force your eye to go where I wanted in the photo. I'm not talking about extremely shallow like on portraits. When I first learned about DOF there us a sweet spot that you focus on to help you get everything you want in focus. What I learned later was I would focus on the most important detail and use a slightly larger aperture so the details outside the sharp area were a little less sharp. Your eye always goes to the sharpest area first. I could go into a long discussion about circles of confusion to show how DIF works but it's too involved and not always necessary.
That’s a matter of opinion. If you’re suggesting that sharpness, definition and contrast is unimportant then I’m afraid we’ll have to agree to disagree. Many times since I switched to Fuji I’ve read people saying not to stop down too much as the sweet spot is often in the middle of the aperture range. On one of my lenses it’s around f5.6.
Just a quick Google:
I am not an amateaur when it comes to photography and also subscribe to the KISS principle. I use my Google phone (prior to that a Samsung galaxy 7) and have a very simple 5 minute setup on my workbench that cost me less than $15. my gallery is here.: Dave Hulett gallery. I do not sell anything but merely like to share with friends/family my works. If your interested drop me a private message and I can give you a link to a video of my setup.
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
Well I've been a photographer for 50 years and worked as a professional for 27. I'm also a graduate of the National camera repair school. You vmcsn teat lenses and find that sweet spot but in real life shooting it rarely comes into play.
I worked as a Reprographic Technician many years ago for an Industrial Photography company.
Sharpness is everything in Reprographics but I rarely went beyond f16 on a camera that had a 30cm lens that went down to f128.
I’ve been a keen Photographer for about 50 years as well, and although not a professional I do try to absorb relevant technical information when it’s presented. I suspect these (and other similar articles I’ve read) folks know what they’re talking about. I’ve certainly had lots very sharp images from my equipment, even at modest apertures.
How to Find & Use Your Lens Sweet Spot For Super Sharp Images
All lenses have something called a ‘sweet spot’. This is the aperture at which your lens will give you maximum sharpness.
photographymc.com
At the risk of offending everyone…you’re both right to some extent. I spent over 50 years as a commercial photographer and business owner. We were early adopters, taking the studio fully digital starting in 1999, finding a way to replace imaging on large format sheet film (up to 8” x 10”) with digital capture without sacrificing image quality. We spent over 24k on our first system - it was a whopping 6.3 megapixel system that produced images that were capable of producing 8’ wide images for trade show booths, and, at that price didn’t include the camera, just a back that replaced the film in our studio system.
The sweet spot does, indeed exist - its the result of optics tuned to perfection for an application based on film capture. That’s the good news. The rest of the story is that, for most imaging systems in phones today, the imaging chip is about half or less area than the nail on your pinky finger. The optical systems are minor works of engineering magic, but really aren’t capable of truly rendering quality images. What you see in the end is the result of software interpolating data into the best representation it can.
That sweet spot comes into play when the imaging chip is large enough to benefit - in my opinion, that’s when it gets up to aps sized chips at a minimum. So, if your working with a dslr and decent optics it’s a factor. For your phone, it’s not an issue.
The sweet spot does, indeed exist - its the result of optics tuned to perfection for an application based on film capture. That’s the good news. The rest of the story is that, for most imaging systems in phones today, the imaging chip is about half or less area than the nail on your pinky finger. The optical systems are minor works of engineering magic, but really aren’t capable of truly rendering quality images. What you see in the end is the result of software interpolating data into the best representation it can.
That sweet spot comes into play when the imaging chip is large enough to benefit - in my opinion, that’s when it gets up to aps sized chips at a minimum. So, if your working with a dslr and decent optics it’s a factor. For your phone, it’s not an issue.
I’d read about it many years ago but didn’t take too much notice. I only really took notice when I switched to Fuji cameras about five years ago. There was much talk of it and in particular checking individual lenses. I checked a couple of mine and was pleasantly surprised at how sharp they were at virtually all apertures. The one exception was a 10mm - 24mm zoom lens that is not so good at f6.3. As a result I obviously avoid this area of the aperture range on that lens. I’m now confident though that I can take pictures with the lens wide open if necessary and still get good photographs. Obviously if I need a greater depth of field I stop down.
Yes, the tiny sensors in phones and tablets are something else. I’ve been quite surprised over the years at how good some of my iPad pictures come out, provided there is enough light.
Jeff, I remember the days of shooting on I think it was 12” x 10” cut film on one of our repro cameras. We had to hook up a small cylinder vacuum cleaner (that’s what it looked like) to keep the film flat on the platen. Thankfully not used very often as it wasn’t exactly a quick process! 😆
Yes, the tiny sensors in phones and tablets are something else. I’ve been quite surprised over the years at how good some of my iPad pictures come out, provided there is enough light.
Jeff, I remember the days of shooting on I think it was 12” x 10” cut film on one of our repro cameras. We had to hook up a small cylinder vacuum cleaner (that’s what it looked like) to keep the film flat on the platen. Thankfully not used very often as it wasn’t exactly a quick process! 😆
Most of my studio photography experience is limited to my timespan as a turner (not extensive), but I do have a good bit of wildlife and nature photography experience. The sweet spot is definitely a thing, and no one can argue against sharpness and saturation being important. However, in practical settings I definitely favor depth of field over the sweet spot. Usually, currently, I try to shoot around f8/f11, but when I was doing a lot of macro work with creepy crawlies f16 was pretty standard (assuming I was also using a flash). Or more wide open if appropriate—the bigger the creature, the more wide open I tended to shoot (as I wasn’t as limited by distance to subject). As an aside I do have some old cool glass that generate interesting bokeh
Post-processing software is so advanced now that diffraction issues with small aperture is a negligible issue. Likewise, lack of sharpness for not being in the sweet spot can also be corrected in post in most circumstances. Obviously, exceptions apply. Depth of field can be a stylistic choice, but for photographing turnings I think the only circumstances for shooting wide open (ish) is for detail shots or for photographing something like an upright platter. Not to drone on too much, but like others mentioned, sensor size is also so important. Again, post has marginalized some of the differences in sensor size (regarding crispness, saturation, etc…). Sensor technology, too. BUT I still fantasize about a full frame sensor with only 8 or 10 MP. I went down the rabbit hole last night and almost bought an old Canon 1d mk2 for a steal, but apparently it’s difficult to find batteries, a charger, etc… Body maintenance and support issues as well. I do miss the feel of a large blocky grip.
@Bill Alston that’s awesome about the in-camera focus stacking of the Fuji. I’m a bit green with envy. Years ago, I almost pulled the trigger on the Fuji x-h1, but I wanted a full frame so opted for the Sony (and found a killer deal on an a7-2, as the a7-3 was just released). Late 2018 when I bought, I think?
Post-processing software is so advanced now that diffraction issues with small aperture is a negligible issue. Likewise, lack of sharpness for not being in the sweet spot can also be corrected in post in most circumstances. Obviously, exceptions apply. Depth of field can be a stylistic choice, but for photographing turnings I think the only circumstances for shooting wide open (ish) is for detail shots or for photographing something like an upright platter. Not to drone on too much, but like others mentioned, sensor size is also so important. Again, post has marginalized some of the differences in sensor size (regarding crispness, saturation, etc…). Sensor technology, too. BUT I still fantasize about a full frame sensor with only 8 or 10 MP. I went down the rabbit hole last night and almost bought an old Canon 1d mk2 for a steal, but apparently it’s difficult to find batteries, a charger, etc… Body maintenance and support issues as well. I do miss the feel of a large blocky grip.
@Bill Alston that’s awesome about the in-camera focus stacking of the Fuji. I’m a bit green with envy. Years ago, I almost pulled the trigger on the Fuji x-h1, but I wanted a full frame so opted for the Sony (and found a killer deal on an a7-2, as the a7-3 was just released). Late 2018 when I bought, I think?
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I stand to be corrected, but from what I read some time ago, some of the best in camera focus stacking used to be on Olympus cameras?
It was an X-H1 that I bought Michael. I think launch price was over £2000 when it came out. I was (luckily) late to the party and paid £600 brand new, body only. It was an absolute bargain and a great camera. I’d never go back to a DSLR now. Fuji lenses also seem to be very well made, if a bit pricey.
Edit: Computational Photography can do some great things for small sensors like those in phones and tablets.
It was an X-H1 that I bought Michael. I think launch price was over £2000 when it came out. I was (luckily) late to the party and paid £600 brand new, body only. It was an absolute bargain and a great camera. I’d never go back to a DSLR now. Fuji lenses also seem to be very well made, if a bit pricey.
Edit: Computational Photography can do some great things for small sensors like those in phones and tablets.
You might be right about Olympus cameras.
Cool about the x-h1. It's a beast! I think I paid around 1000 USD for my Sony. And right, mirrorless is amazing. Likely won't go back to DSLR either, unless I find a bargain on something special.
Lenses, a whole different rabbit hole
Cool about the x-h1. It's a beast! I think I paid around 1000 USD for my Sony. And right, mirrorless is amazing. Likely won't go back to DSLR either, unless I find a bargain on something special.
Lenses, a whole different rabbit hole
Yes Mirrorless! Oh how the Canon and Nikon fans laughed when Sony brought out their first mirrorless full frame cameras. They’re not laughing now. 😆
I have owned all the brands mentioned except Canon but I know it can focus bracket as well. Olympus does do in camera "focus stacking" but it is only jpeg as output and the parameters cannot be changed. Still, it is pretty good. Fuji will focus bracket images and will allow you to stack them in software but the filles are not organized on the camera card. My Nikon will do focus bracketing and will place individual files into separate folders on the card so I don't have to hunt around for them. Both Fuji and Nikon will allow stacking of both RAW and Jpeg in other software (like Affinity, Photoshop, Helicon, etc) and will generate a jpeg, tiff or *.dng file as output (maybe others). I own a Fuji XE4, a Nikon Z6 and Nikon Z7II currently with way too many lenses for all of them.
Technology keeps on changing. I have a decent Olympus E-510 SLR digital camera, maybe 10 years old. Every new phone I get (once every 2-3 years), I compare to the Olympus. Every phone except my newest was not as good as the camera. But now I much prefer my new phone, a Samsung G21, 3 years old, over the camera. With the Olympus, I had to mount the camera on a tripod, and also needed to edit the photos for light/contrast/maybe even color with the Windows Photo editor. Plus it's memory card is close to becoming obsolete. With my Samsung, no need for the tripod, and post-processing is minimal. All these comparisons are with identical lighting and gradient background.
In terms of transferring from phone to computer, the USB charging cord can plug into any laptop or desktop that is less than 10 years old, and copy/paste with Windows Explorer works fine.
In terms of transferring from phone to computer, the USB charging cord can plug into any laptop or desktop that is less than 10 years old, and copy/paste with Windows Explorer works fine.