the Beall Buffing method ......

Discussion in 'Tutorials and Tips' started by odie, Feb 11, 2017.

  1. john lucas

    john lucas

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    Well I've been using it for a long time. I had the same problems early on, burn through of the finish and tossing pieces. I changed to 4" wheels instead of the 8. That and changing brands of finish stopped the burn through. Tossing bowls and things simply comes with practice. If you always buff toward an edge it won't grab the work. I also quit using the wax but mostly because it simply didn't seem to add anything. When I do need protection I use Johnson's paste wax.
     
  2. Clifton C

    Clifton C

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    Here is my buff rake, until yesterday it had the original duct tape handle. Odie, I'm trying your "do it now" theme, I just haven't found time to make the sign...:)
    Raking a new buff gets a lot of the loose stuff out all at once and into the dust collector instead of in the air. Then a few times a year I rake the buff just to loosen things up. The tripoli a few times a year, the white diamond sometimes and the wax, rarely. If I make another one, I'll make the handle a bit longer so I can use it as a back scratcher...
    Buff rake 1.jpg Buff rake 2.jpg
     
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  3. Bill Boehme

    Bill Boehme Administrator Staff Member

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    Now that's a back scratcher. :D
     
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  4. Tom Albrecht

    Tom Albrecht

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    And what was the "changing brands of finish" --from what brand to what brand?
     
  5. Tom Albrecht

    Tom Albrecht

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    I had some industrial buffs that I used in the headstock once in awhile. Someone earlier mentioned that it was not convenient working over the bedways, and I agree, I kept bumping the bowl into headstock or the ways. So, I just quit buffing. Then I took a class with Ellsworth last fall and he showed us his dedicated buffing machine on which he uses nothing more than the 1st step red rouge. As usual, I got carried away--- I bought a Beal system, a 1/2 hp Leeson motor from Ebay, and I built a nice wooden platform with 2X6 that I filled with sand.
    I'll post a pic tomorrow when I get back in the shop.
     
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  6. john lucas

    john lucas

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    I went to 4" wheels. I use an 8" extension on my lathe spindle and then run the speed at what I feel is comfortable. Pretty high, probaby 2000 but I never took the time to look. I only use a touch of the bars. It doesn't take much. My White diamond buff doesn't even look like it has anything on it, that's how little i use. With finishes that are very hard it takes more time and pressure to get out any streaks. Finishes that are soft require a more gentle touch and slower speeds to keep from burning through. Since I went to the 4" buffs I almost never burn through a finish. They also don't grab the wood as easily but will still toss a piece if you buff from an edge out or let it grab an edge. Always buff out toward an edge and if you have to change your hand positions move away from the wheel.
     
  7. Tom Albrecht

    Tom Albrecht

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    Thanks, J
    ...Still waiting to here what brand of finishes you use
    TA
     
  8. Tom Albrecht

    Tom Albrecht

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    beal - 1.jpg
     
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  9. Allan Cusworth

    Allan Cusworth

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    There are large nuts on some of the Beall buffing wheels; not the bowl buffs. I have covered them with masking tape to stop those annoying rub marks on the inside of small bowls. It works for me. After having postings on this thread, I plan on changing to the white hockey tape that Odie wrapped his mounting mandrel with.
     
  10. odie

    odie

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    Allan......Good idea about covering the bolt heads with tape. I think I'll use your idea, and cover my bolt heads with tape, as well......thanks for taking the time to post your ideas on that. Previously, I had taken those bolt heads and ground them down about 1/8", so they don't stick out as far.....that helps, too, but it's not a complete solution. I also polished the shortened bolt heads........but, I still hit the metal to wood occasionally. Although, this happens much less frequently, it's still unacceptable.

    The new style Beall bowl buffs are made differently.....the bolt heads are not exposed like the old style. I still use the old style when I can, because I have them. After using the new style, I'm converting all my buffing operations to using them for bowl interiors.......this fixes the problem altogether. :D

    https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/37/5178/Beall-4"-Bowl-Buff-3-Piece-Set
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2017
  11. odie

    odie

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    Update: I think the hockey tape is going to work just fine.....:).....thanks!
    IMG_2781 (2).JPG
     

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