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Planet Mesquite through the eye of a fish

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I've finally achieved 1" thickness in the northern hemisphere (the hole end) - the southern hemisphere (faceplate end) is a bit over 2" as you get near the bottom.

I must confess, I find it mesmerizing to stare into the cavernous interior of this log. The inside diameter is about 30", larger than any outside diameter piece I've turned by 8".

The pic was taken with a 180-degree Nikon fisheye - the distortion is an unavoidable by-product. The camera-man is Randy Smith, without whom the lathe modifications would have failed a long time ago and the whole project would have cratered - turning a grossly out-of-balance 1000-lb log is precarious and dangerous. Thanks to Randy this project still may succeed.

Hopefully I'll get it into the drying room in a week or so, after which I'm planning on turning a few weed-pots.
18-Fisheye.JPG 18-Fisheye Pic of Pic.JPG
 
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OK - you caught me - it was late. Meant PLANET MESQUITE.

However, there was a PLANET WALNUT - it was only 18"-diameter - it was a nice piece though probably not of much interest to the forum. But here it is:

DSC_4333.jpg
 

Bill Boehme

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I fixed the title. I don't see any voids or ring shake in Planet Walnut ... it couldn't have been much of a challenge. :D (just kidding of course)

That's a serious gloss finish on Planet Walnut. It makes a perfect fisheye mirror. I can see everything in the room including you taking the picture. :D

Planet Mesquite is looking very good. I'm happy to see that it decided to stay in one piece.
 
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Kepler mission added 1284 new planets, 10 could be earth like.....needs more study for determination......course in another solar system
 
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Both planets are amazing. What is that perfect finish on planet walnut?
William,
I've been hesitant to answer that question - not because I don't want to share but because most are not equipped to deal with isocyanate-class materials. You need to have:
- a room with an attic space NOT adjoining to any living space (as in separate shop)
- a spray-booth with a serious explosion proof fan - mine is 2000-cfm, takes a 1/2-hp motor, and costs $700 without motor
- three layers of filter
- the shop plumbed with a forced-air respirator system - isocyanate goes through an organic cartridge like minnows through a shark-net
- two spray guns - the sealer gun (2.5-nozzle) costs a bit over $200 - the barrier/clear-coat gun is a 1.4 and will set you back over $500
- find a book titled: The Joys of Sanding and read it twenty times. Be ready to spend more on sandpaper than many do on tools - costs about $400 to get started. Check out Eagle Abrasives - silicon carbide assilex and yellow.

If the above is discouraging then you've got good sense. To my thinking this type of finish would ruin most of the better turnings I've seen - almost all bowls and anything under 12" needs a subdued surface that shows design and functionality over finish. I'm in the early stages of a book on Planet Mesquite which will go into detail on finish strategy.

Meanwhile I'm looking forward to doing a few weed-pots: turn in 30-minutes, sand on the lathe in a minute or so and apply a rub-on finish on the lathe.
 
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Sounds like new world
 

john lucas

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I prefer Birchwood Casey True oil for a glossy finish like that. Much easier and safer. After you go through the process of building the finish and apply the last coat you let it cure for several days and then rub it out with automotive polishes. My last piece tool 9 coats and looked like it had been covered with glass. The only photos I can find are of another piece that I used for my article on how to photograph really glossy work. I'll gladly send it to anyone who sends an e-mail to johnclucas45@gmail.com
 
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John, thanks for the info. I figured it would be a "super" process, but had no idea to the level ion described. Yes, I have good sense, it will be more WOP for me. Thanks for posting your outstanding work, I enjoyed seeing your fantastic pieces.
 

Bill Boehme

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I prefer Birchwood Casey True oil for a glossy finish like that. Much easier and safer. After you go through the process of building the finish and apply the last coat you let it cure for several days and then rub it out with automotive polishes. My last piece tool 9 coats and looked like it had been covered with glass. The only photos I can find are of another piece that I used for my article on how to photograph really glossy work. I'll gladly send it to anyone who sends an e-mail to johnclucas45@gmail.com

@john lucas how about posting your process in the hints and tips forum.
 
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@john lucas how about posting your process in the hints and tips forum.
John L,

What Bill said about posting process etc.

I'll e-mail you (John L) separately about your photographing shiny wood. As a side note, a friend of mine who helps with a guitar building workshop (electric, see www.guitarbuilding.org) recommends Tru Oil (I'm assuming that's your B-C-T-O)

John T, this piece is awesome and well beyond my skills. Aspirational!!! (Heck planet walnut is also awesome!!)
 
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