• We just finished moving the forums to a new hosting server. It looks like everything is functioning correctly but if you find a problem please report it in the Forum Technical Support Forum (click here) or email us at forum_moderator AT aawforum.org. Thanks!
  • Beware of Counterfeit Woodturning Tools (click here for details)
  • Johnathan Silwones is starting a new AAW chapter, Southern Alleghenies Woodturners, in Johnstown, PA. (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Dave Roberts for "2 Hats" being selected as Turning of the Week for April 22, 2024 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Custom Bowl lathe from the 90's

Joined
Jun 1, 2006
Messages
326
Likes
154
Location
Freelton, ON
I am posting this as the topic grew out of Raul's posting about a Hook Tool earlier this week. This is a modified description I had put together in 2004 when I was selling it. Turned into quite an adventure finding the originals of my photos. They were on a CD-ROM that would not read with my Notebook, but when I booted up our old XP Desktop in Safe Mode managed to get them as well as others I had lost track of from the first months of my first digital camera, a Nikon Coolpix 995.

It was custom built in the early 90's. The fellow that made it was a friend of a Golden Horseshoe Guild member and apparently made a few of them. It is a pedestal of 10" tubular steel about 57" high. The Bed is 22" long and 37" from the floor. Spindle is 12" over the bed for 24" capacity. Spindle height is about 48" from the floor. The bed has a small 6" long right angled extension projecting out towards the operator, located 8" from the pedestal or about 5" from the face of the spindle. The spindle is 1 1/4" x 7 TPI RH thread which is a standard machinist size and mounted in two pulley blocks which are attached to the exterior pedestal wall with Cap Screws. It has a hollow spindle (just under 11/16") with 1 1/4" x 7 TPI LH thread on the outboard side. The banjo is a General with an extended height support for the tool rest. It has a general 12” tool rest and a Delta S-curved bowl tool rest.

The motor is a 2 HP, 220 Volts with a three position pulley and there is a Jackshaft arrangement in the Pedestal with both the drive belt and the output belt on the same pulley with a four position pulley on the spindle which provides a variety of speeds from about 145 RPM to 2600 RPM. It has a Magnetic Starter Switch. I have a spreadsheet I generated to know the speeds. Before being struck with the notion of buying the 2436, I was intending to put a 2 HP VFD on it, but never got to it with all the commotion of our move.
It is an extremely robust lathe and weighs easily in excess of 400 pounds. It is an excellent lathe to turn bowls on as you have full access to the face of the bowl without arching your back.
DSCN0256 (Large).JPG DSCN0258 (Large).JPG DSCN0262 (Large).JPG DSCN1442 (Large).JPG DSCN1444 (Large).JPG DSCN1445 (Large).JPG
 
Joined
Mar 10, 2015
Messages
347
Likes
149
Location
Aurora, Ont, CA
Website
www.revolvingarts.ca
Very nicely designed and executed. What I really like is that its very compact. How was the bed done? It looks like heavy angle iron.

Mike, my lathe had a bed of two 10" I-beams. Its industrial and heavy, but I-beam twists rather easily, so its not the best.
Box section or tube has better twist rigidity.
Just a thought.
 
Joined
Jun 1, 2006
Messages
326
Likes
154
Location
Freelton, ON
That's a healthy beast for sure.

What are you turning with now?
I bought a 3HP Oneway 2436 with 17" bed extension in late 2003 and was delivered by Kim Clay and her husband in the Oneway show trailer in February 2004. I live just over an hour from the factory. Never regretted spending the money for a hobby.
 
Joined
Jun 1, 2006
Messages
326
Likes
154
Location
Freelton, ON
Very nicely designed and executed. What I really like is that its very compact. How was the bed done? It looks like heavy angle iron.

Mike, my lathe had a bed of two 10" I-beams. Its industrial and heavy, but I-beam twists rather easily, so its not the best.
Box section or tube has better twist rigidity.
Just a thought.
Olaf, It is 15 years ago now and the picture is better than my memory. The fellow who did it was a good welder and machinist. It ran very nicely. Biggest problem for me was getting bowls concentric when reversing on vacuum chuck as there was no tailstock. I made a jig with a nail at 12" so I could get the bowl cented to turn off the tenon and make a respectable bottom. Another member bought it last summer and put a 3 HP motor and VFD on it.
 
Joined
Jul 26, 2016
Messages
2,326
Likes
1,105
Location
Nebraska
Very nicely designed and executed. What I really like is that its very compact. How was the bed done? It looks like heavy angle iron.

Mike, my lathe had a bed of two 10" I-beams. Its industrial and heavy, but I-beam twists rather easily, so its not the best.
Box section or tube has better twist rigidity.
Just a thought.

Olaf,

An I-Beam can be easily boxed in with welded plates or bolted in removable plates.
I have access to some jumbo sized I-Beam pieces that are cut off from driven pilings
when additions are added to our facility. These I-Beams come in 60 foot lengths and
are driven into the ground until they reach bedrock or appropriate depth for the piling
and the exposed end is cut off at the desired height leaving various lengths left over.
Depending on the facility being added to these I-Beams range from 12" to 18" in size.
Hopefully I won't be turning an item that can twist that size of I-Beam. :)
 
Joined
Mar 10, 2015
Messages
347
Likes
149
Location
Aurora, Ont, CA
Website
www.revolvingarts.ca
Depending on the facility being added to these I-Beams range from 12" to 18" in size.
Hopefully I won't be turning an item that can twist that size of I-Beam. :)

Sounds like heavy duty stuff. And your results will likely depend a lot on design and swing height.

Boxing them in, to reduce vibration at the headstock, is something I considered. But that requires on-site welding and hence real $$$.
My simple solution was to crossbrace with 3x3 square tubing at strategic spots and triangulated to the top of the headstock. These go to the back wall (horizontally) and are bolted into concrete. Nothing moves anymore, even with 300# pieces. :)
 
Back
Top