• Beware of Counterfeit Woodturning Tools (click here for details)
  • Johnathan Silwones is starting a new AAW chapter, Southern Alleghenies Woodturners, in Johnstown, PA. (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Paul May for "Checkerboard (ver 3.0)" being selected as Turning of the Week for March 25, 2024 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Chuck reviews

Joined
Aug 7, 2013
Messages
8
Likes
0
Location
Montana
I looking to purchase a new chuck and saw the Woodcraft sale on the Nova G3. But before I purchasing one thought I would ask and see what other wood turners thought. I see a few people in the revs.iews that said they had problems with it not being centered, out by a few 1000's. I think if there are better ones then I would prefer to purchase one of them. What are your thought
 

Bill Boehme

Administrator
Staff member
Beta Tester
TOTW Team
Joined
Jan 27, 2005
Messages
12,886
Likes
5,169
Location
Dalworthington Gardens, TX
Website
pbase.com
All of them are off by a few thousandths. This is woodworking and not metal working. You can get a metal chuck for a couple thousand dollars that is more accurate.

The main thin in woodturning is how well the chuck holds and repeatability. You wouldn't want a slack-jawed chuck. :D
 
Joined
Jun 10, 2004
Messages
792
Likes
9
Location
Ames, Iowa (about 25 miles north of Des Moines)
Website
rwallace.public.iastate.edu
Here is a response I posted yesterday on a Facebook group page about a similar question regarding selecting chucks - apropos here:

Quality brands for self-centering scroll chucks for use on wood lathes include Oneway, Vicmarc, Axminster, Sorby, EasyWood, Nova/Teknatool, and perhaps a few others. The important thing to consider is the range of available jaw profiles that the manufacturer offers, the design and quality of the chuck body and mechanical operation, and other convenience considerations regarding spindle adapter compatibility and the kind of chuck key required. Whatever you do in the end, I would recommend deciding on one brand and equipping yourself with chucks (yes, you will wind up with more than one!) of the same brand. I have settled on Vicmarc chucks which I consider the best available today. Years ago I was correctly advised by a few different professional turners to try Vicmarc chucks, and I have been very happy with the performance of Vicmarcs for well over 17 years of constant use (I currently own 6 Vicmarc chucks - 4 VM100's and 2 VM120's for use on my 4 lathes). Not only are they very well built and well designed, they only require a hex key to operate, and do not rely on proprietary geared keys which require making sure the gear teeth are seated properly EACH TIME you use the chuck (and many times for each piece being turned). I found this annoying in using chucks with geared teeth that I owned previously (and have since sold) in preference to the Vicmarcs that I now own. Remember that "you get what you pay for" and it is well worth spending some extra cash to buy a top quality chuck that you will use VERY often when turning. Don't skimp on a chuck! Get a good one for your convenience, ease of use, and safety.

Rob
 
Joined
May 28, 2015
Messages
1,554
Likes
178
Location
Bainbridge Island, WA
The G3 has a shorter threaded female part than the corresponding area of my Talon chuck. They made the G3 for the Nova Comet II lathe, which has a shorter spindle. That being said, the chuck fits fine on my larger Jet lathe. However, (a) I find the G3 to be rather stiff; (b) it is more restricted in jaw capacity (2-3/8" rather than the 3" of the Talon #2 jaws) and (c) Cole jaw selection for the G3 isn't great. I have the G3 because it came free with my lathe, and am happy to have a second chuck, but super-glad I have the Talon.

PS: That's not to say I think the Talon is the best chuck out there, I have no experience with others and the work I do isn't big enough to challenge the Talon's holding power, etc.
 

odie

TOTW Team
Joined
Dec 22, 2006
Messages
7,075
Likes
9,475
Location
Panning for Montana gold, with Betsy, the mule!
I had one of the first Nova chucks, and two Vicmarc chucks, all of which I subsequently sold. All three of these, I thought were good quality chucks, but they all operated with "tommy bars"......and, this is the reason I stopped using them. There were too many times I needed a third hand while using tommy bars. To my knowledge, none of the currently manufactured chucks operate with tommy bars.....so, this would no longer be a problem.

Now, I own three Oneway Stronghold chucks. I'm satisfied with the usability and accuracy of these, and there is a wide range of available jaws for them.

I'm not looking to purchase any more chucks.....but if I were, I'd take a hard look at the Easywood chuck with it's quick change jaws. This feature, I see as a great boon to woodturners. (I do wonder if there is a trade-off for accuracy with the quick change feature, though.....?)

ko
 
Joined
May 4, 2010
Messages
2,432
Likes
1,850
Location
Bozeman, MT
I own a Nova G3, a Supernova 2, and a Titan, in order of size and also in order of purchase. My original reason for selecting was twofold: Nova chucks were just a little less expensive and all of the jaws fit all of the chucks. With due respect Jamie, the G3 long predated the introduction of the Comet, though yours may be a dedicated Comet edition, just as there was once a G3 that was sold as the Delta chuck.

All of three perform well, with a minimum amount of attention. The G3 does use a dedicated tool but the Supernova and the Titan use the same hex tool. There are no serrated/straight jaws, unlike some of the other brands.

In our high school shop, we have one chuck of just about every brand available and the students are incredibly hard on them. The lower priced brands sold for mini lathes have not held up well. The Nova, Oneway and Vicmarc chucks have all faired pretty well.
 
Joined
Jan 15, 2011
Messages
46
Likes
16
Location
Lower Alabama
I have 1 Nova, 2 Oneway Stronghold and 1 Vicmarc 120. I no longer use the Nova very often. The repeatability of the Vicmarc puts it on top of the heap. The Strongholds are good for reverse turning which puts them on top of the heap when that is something I want to do.
 
Joined
Oct 30, 2008
Messages
42
Likes
14
I have four G3's and have not had a problem with any (I also have some SN and SN2's).
In the G3 the standard is insert style which I would recommend. Others, the G3-D (Delta) and G3-Comet are direct threaded.
All of mine except one has been within Teknatool specifications of .004 or less, the one was .005 but others are .001.
I find the serrated jaws very useful for deeper items of any diameter. The 35mm spigot, 45mm spigot, and 100mm Powergrip jaws have serrations on the interior for longer spigot/tendon holding.
I do not know the capacity of your lathe but if 12" or larger you may want to look at the SN2 instead of the G3. The G3 will physically accept the 100mm powergrip and 130mm bowl jaws but is not rated for them.
I do not know if the one you are looking at is the $100 or the $150 which has four sets of jaws. I guess they are OK but I have never even installed the small cole jaws; the pin jaws are very nice; the 35mm bowl jaws has the same spigot diameter as the pin jaws.
Unless they have changed, be careful of inserts sold by Woodcraft as they may not be oem products but knock-offs. If you look at Woodcraft for inserts for 1X8 you will see there are two. One is a Nova IDNS which I believe is a real Nova, the other is a Teknatool FOR Nova chucks and I think this is the bogus one. The real one will come in a red box.
If looking just at the chuck and not the set you may want to look at Toolsplus also, you know you will get a real Nova insert.
 

Bill Boehme

Administrator
Staff member
Beta Tester
TOTW Team
Joined
Jan 27, 2005
Messages
12,886
Likes
5,169
Location
Dalworthington Gardens, TX
Website
pbase.com
knock-offs. If you look at Woodcraft for inserts for 1X8 you will see there are two. One is a Nova IDNS which I believe is a real Nova, the other is a Teknatool FOR Nova chucks and I think this is the bogus one. The real one will come in a red box.
If looking just at the chuck and not the set you may want to look at Toolsplus also, you know you will get a real Nova insert.

Teknatool is the manufacturer of Nova chucks. The real OEM inserts currently come in a red box.
 

RichColvin

Super Moderator
Staff member
OTI Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2016
Messages
667
Likes
497
Location
Marysville, OH
Website
www.colvintools.com
Vicmarc on my list for my next purchase. Too many turners I respect use them.

Kind regards,
Rich
 
Joined
Feb 8, 2014
Messages
1,173
Likes
611
Location
Evanston, IL USA
I'm not looking to purchase any more chucks.....but if I were, I'd take a hard look at the Easywood chuck with it's quick change jaws. This feature, I see as a great boon to woodturners. (I do wonder if there is a trade-off for accuracy with the quick change feature, though.....?)

ko

I have Oneways, Vicmarcs, and an Easywood. I too questioned the possible accuracy trade off of the Easy, but have not experienced a bit of that.
 
Joined
Aug 31, 2006
Messages
317
Likes
115
Location
Montgomery, TX
Website
www.gulfcoastwoodturners.org
Avoid chucks that use "tommy bars" to open/close jaws. Way too difficult to mount piece in jaws. You will regret it if you purchase a "tommy bar" chuck.

Go with a chuck that uses a positive engaging key (Vicmarc, Oneway, etc.) to open/close jaws. You will not regret it. - John
 

hockenbery

Forum MVP
Beta Tester
TOTW Team
Joined
Apr 27, 2004
Messages
8,590
Likes
4,885
Location
Lakeland, Florida
Website
www.hockenberywoodturning.com
Avoid chucks that use "tommy bars" to open/close jaws. Way too difficult to mount piece in jaws. You will regret it if you purchase a "tommy bar" chuck.

Go with a chuck that uses a positive engaging key (Vicmarc, Oneway, etc.) to open/close jaws. You will not regret it. - John

I don't reccomend tommy bars to beginners. I like the hex key in the vicmarc.

In fairness to tommy bar chucks, Few things in woodturning are clear cut ...
Tommy bar vs key is one of them.

With the spindle locked, tommy bar chucks are easier and faster to operate than keyed chucks.

One hand operates the bar to open and close the jaws with a push or pull and one holds the work piece. Adding a longer shaft on the bar gives an effortless positive lock with a push and quick release with a pull.
several professionals I know prefer tommy bar chucks.

Of course if you don't have an easy to use spindle lock you can't use the tommy bar chucks easily.
 
Last edited:
Joined
May 9, 2011
Messages
86
Likes
50
Location
Arlington, VA
Website
www.jjstephen.com
Started off with an SN2 (on a midi lathe) as this was considered a best buy at the time (don't think the G3 even existed yet). When I decided I wanted a second chuck, decided to try a different brand just for the heck of it and got a Oneway Talon. I immediately liked the Talon a lot more, although the serrated jaws were probably part of the reason. When I upgraded to a bigger lathe, I stuck with Oneway. That said, I have used Vicmarc chucks on several occasions and think they are great also.

Teknatool makes good stuff though, just prefer Oneway. I've never used a Hurricane or the EWT chuck. However, I don't find occasionally changing jaws to be that onerous so I don't see the big allure of quick-change jaws.
 

Bill Boehme

Administrator
Staff member
Beta Tester
TOTW Team
Joined
Jan 27, 2005
Messages
12,886
Likes
5,169
Location
Dalworthington Gardens, TX
Website
pbase.com
However, I don't find occasionally changing jaws to be that onerous so I don't see the big allure of quick-change jaws.

I agree. I have a Vicmarc with six sizes of jaws. I can swap jaws in less than a minute. If woodturning was the Indy 500 then I might see a plausible reason to swap jaws in less than 15 seconds. It takes me several minutes to remember where I put the jaws and several more minutes to decide which size jaws would be most appropriate for the project at hand. :D
 
Joined
Oct 2, 2006
Messages
1,049
Likes
35
Location
Tallahassee FL
I don't reccomend tommy bars to beginners. I like the hex key in the vicmarc.

In fairness to tommy bar chucks, Few things in woodturning are clear cut ...
Tommy bar vs key is one of them.

With the spindle locked, tommy bar chucks are easier and faster to operate than keyed chucks.

One hand operates the bar to open and close the jaws with a push or pull and one holds the work piece. Adding a longer shaft on the bar gives an effortless positive lock with a push and quick release with a pull.
several professionals I know prefer tommy bar chucks.

Of course if you don't have an easy to use spindle lock you can't use the tommy bar chucks easily.

Or if you have a poor memory of which way to swing the bars.
 
Joined
May 4, 2010
Messages
2,432
Likes
1,850
Location
Bozeman, MT
I find the serrated jaws very useful for deeper items of any diameter. The 35mm spigot, 45mm spigot, and 100mm Powergrip jaws have serrations on the interior for longer spigot/tendon holding.
Brain fart. I just bought a 35 mm spigot jaw set and the 100 mm powerjaws came with the titan. Thank you for pointing those out Michael.
 
Joined
Apr 5, 2009
Messages
76
Likes
65
Location
Prescott, AZ
Website
www.billooms.com
The statement that a good metal chuck costs "a couple thousand dollars" is not true. The chuck that comes standard with Grizzly's cheapest lathe has a measured runout of about 0.001". The issue is with the inaccuracy of screw-on chucks. Even if the threads on the chuck are perfect, the threads on the spindle of your lathe may not be. In my experience the screw-on wood chucks have several thousandths of run-out. I get different numbers depending on which lathe I measure -- different results for my Woodfast compared to my JET 1220. If you want accuracy (on smaller pieces) mount your work on a morse taper.

I'm a big fan of Vicmarc chucks and recommend them.
 
Joined
Jun 21, 2016
Messages
28
Likes
13
Location
CA
I started out with a G3 chuck, but wasn't very happy with it because I don't think it held pieces as securely as it should have. I ended up selling it on eBay and buying a Vicmarc 100, and I think it's the best decision I could have made. In my opinion, there's no comparison between the two chucks.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Aug 7, 2013
Messages
8
Likes
0
Location
Montana
Would like to thank everyone for your input. I have started looking at Vicmarc and Oneway chucks.
Again Thank you.
 

pete marken

Artist
Joined
Feb 17, 2014
Messages
27
Likes
354
Location
Calera Alabama
I have 2 Vicmarc VM120 chucks, one of which is about 17 years old and is still in use, never a problem. The newer one operates in reverse as far as tightening and jaw numbering. This is a little bit of a pain though. I also have a VM100 And a Super Nova. I do not like the Super nova, it seems to require tightening and does not run as true as the Vicmark chucks.
 
Joined
Jul 5, 2016
Messages
469
Likes
244
Location
San Antonio, TX
Hey guys,

I own two G3s (purchased one, Got 2) with 50mm jaws. I am having problems with bigger pieces (10x5) slipping sometimes, I'm sure part of it is my spigots, but works fine with wide but not so deep, or small pieces.

I was thinking of getting bigger jaws, 70mm or 100mm when I started thinking maybe I should get new chuck as well and make it permanent chuck with that size jaw so started reading.

Would vicmarc 120 be too big for 12" lathe? Some said on other forums that it would be. I have Delta 46-460 midi lathe. Also, should I get 70mm or 100mm for bigger pieces? Is there a rule of thumb? For example, use 1/3 of bowl size?
 

hockenbery

Forum MVP
Beta Tester
TOTW Team
Joined
Apr 27, 2004
Messages
8,590
Likes
4,885
Location
Lakeland, Florida
Website
www.hockenberywoodturning.com
A Vicmarc 120 will hang the work further out from the spindle putting more stress on the bearings and the spindle of lathe not designed for big work. Plus the 120'is quite hefty for a small lathe.

The nova jaws have a tiny bead ( some call it a mini dovetail) at the top of the jaws.
They don't grip as well as real dovetail or the ONEWAY jaws.
However the Nova jaws should be able to hold anything you can turn on your lathe.

I find the nova jaws do an adequate job if the tenon is a cylinder just under 1/2" in length with a tiny notch cut to accommodate the bead inside the jaws. I make this scraping with the point of a skew with the skew flat on the rest. This is not quite as big as the bead on the jaws so that the bead fits tightly in the groove. Also I make a flat where the tops of the jaws meet the wood.
 

Bill Boehme

Administrator
Staff member
Beta Tester
TOTW Team
Joined
Jan 27, 2005
Messages
12,886
Likes
5,169
Location
Dalworthington Gardens, TX
Website
pbase.com
For a lathe with a 10 or 12 inch swing, either the Vicmarc 100 or the Oneway Talon chuck would be great.

The thing I like about Oneway chucks is the profiled jaws which have a significant advantage over serrated jaws and dovetail jaws when it comes to the range of tenon diameters that they will grip with with less marring and greater contact area. Oneway also sells dovetail jaws for their chucks.

However, nothing beats dovetail jaws for holding a tenon or a mortise that is close to the perfect circle diameter and I really like the solid construction of Vicmarc chucks.

I like the thread adapters on Oneway chucks for their precise alignment and because they do not extend very far from the chuck body. The chuck key can be used to remove the chuck from the spindle with worrying about the adapter slipping. Changing the adapter can be a trying experience. I also like the Vicmarc thread adapter for its precise alignment with the body, but I don't like that it extends so far out the back of the chuck body. Vicmarc does offer direct thread chucks in a couple thread sizes which is my preferred way to go.

I have almost no experience using Nova or other chucks.
 
Joined
Jul 5, 2016
Messages
469
Likes
244
Location
San Antonio, TX
Thanks guys, I will shop around for vicmarc or talon, each seem to have its fans and both are good quality.

Should I get the bigger jaws, or stick with the standard ones that comes with the chuck. I originally was thinking of getting the 3" or 4" jaws for bigger pieces.
 

john lucas

AAW Forum Expert
Joined
Apr 26, 2004
Messages
8,321
Likes
3,576
Location
Cookeville, TN
I have turned 20" bowls with a Vicmarc 100. I love my Vicmarc chucks. I'm not a fan of the Nova chucks when it comes to holding power. Don't know if you have been taught how to make a proper tenon. That goes a long way toward making any chuck work. The tenon should not bottom out on the chuck body. A tenon should have a square shoulder that sits on top of the chuck jaws. This gives 2 points of reference to keep the piece from rocking. A straight shaft stuck in chuck jaws can vibrate loose due to the forces pushing the wood. If you have a shoulder on the tenon it resists this racking of the piece. The tenon should also be shaped to match the jaws. A Vicmarc has dovetail jaws so the tenon should be dovetail shaped. Other chucks may be different.
 
Joined
Jul 5, 2016
Messages
469
Likes
244
Location
San Antonio, TX
Thanks john,

do you use the #2/2" jaws, or bigger on the bigger pieces?

I try to do all what you have said, I never let it bottom out and keep it within 1/4" deep, flat bottom and shoulder with dovetailed walls but I need to pay more attention to make sure the dovetail matches the jaws and not overdoing it. It usually strips the wood and goes flying when it happens.
 

hockenbery

Forum MVP
Beta Tester
TOTW Team
Joined
Apr 27, 2004
Messages
8,590
Likes
4,885
Location
Lakeland, Florida
Website
www.hockenberywoodturning.com
I would thing the tenon shape is the issue.

My nova jaws are not dovetail jaws.
A dovetail tenon would not hold in my nova jaws.
They are straight jaws with a small bead at the top inside of the jaw.
That is the profile I try to duplicate with my nova jaws.
A straight walled tenon can work in the nova jaws most of the time. Making a recess for the little bead at the top,of the jaws I proves the holding.

I use the #2 jaws for bowls up to about 14"
18" and bigger I use the #3 jaws.
16" bowls I might use #2

The bigger chucks can hold larger work quite successfully.
 

Bill Boehme

Administrator
Staff member
Beta Tester
TOTW Team
Joined
Jan 27, 2005
Messages
12,886
Likes
5,169
Location
Dalworthington Gardens, TX
Website
pbase.com
I have turned 20" bowls with a Vicmarc 100. I love my Vicmarc chucks. I'm not a fan of the Nova chucks when it comes to holding power. Don't know if you have been taught how to make a proper tenon. That goes a long way toward making any chuck work. The tenon should not bottom out on the chuck body. A tenon should have a square shoulder that sits on top of the chuck jaws. This gives 2 points of reference to keep the piece from rocking. A straight shaft stuck in chuck jaws can vibrate loose due to the forces pushing the wood. If you have a shoulder on the tenon it resists this racking of the piece. The tenon should also be shaped to match the jaws. A Vicmarc has dovetail jaws so the tenon should be dovetail shaped. Other chucks may be different.

To help illustrate what John said, here are a couple sketches that show the tenon and shoulder. For dovetail jaws, match the dovetail angle when you make the tenon. I will also add that the best size tenon is one that matches the perfect circle diameter of the Jaws being used. If the tenon is much larger than that then it will only be biting on the top corners of the jaws.
tenon-dovetail.jpg
For straight tenons used with profiled jaws everything is essentially the same except for the tenon taper. Although they are called straight, I put a very small dovetail angle on them as shown below. Also the tenon diameter isn't as critical as it is when using chucks with dovetail jaws. Other jaws like shark jaws / serrated jaws would require a straight tenon.
tenon-straight.jpg
 

john lucas

AAW Forum Expert
Joined
Apr 26, 2004
Messages
8,321
Likes
3,576
Location
Cookeville, TN
I do use bigger jaws for bigger bowls but usually only 3". I have up to 5" but my bowls are usually deeper and simply don't have a foot area large enough for 4 or 5" jaws. What cut are you using when the bowl dismounts. Are you still roughing. What tool are you using. A bowl gouge used properly doesn't apply a lot of pressure on the bowl. Because of that a smaller tenon will work better. I find new turners tend to force the cut and push on the bevel. Both of these will put undue pressure against the wood.
 

hockenbery

Forum MVP
Beta Tester
TOTW Team
Joined
Apr 27, 2004
Messages
8,590
Likes
4,885
Location
Lakeland, Florida
Website
www.hockenberywoodturning.com
The Nova jaws I have are not dovetail or straight
This drawing is a bit exaggerated
For a rough turned bowl the tenon should be 2.5" in diameter.

If you put a dovetail in these jaws the grip will be on the wide part of the dovetail and the tenon can slide up in th jaws until it hits the lip. Then it will likely break out.

image.png

The idea is to make a tiny groove for the lip at the top of the jaws to lock into
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jul 5, 2016
Messages
469
Likes
244
Location
San Antonio, TX
I do use bigger jaws for bigger bowls but usually only 3". I have up to 5" but my bowls are usually deeper and simply don't have a foot area large enough for 4 or 5" jaws. What cut are you using when the bowl dismounts. Are you still roughing. What tool are you using. A bowl gouge used properly doesn't apply a lot of pressure on the bowl. Because of that a smaller tenon will work better. I find new turners tend to force the cut and push on the bevel. Both of these will put undue pressure against the wood.

I am using carbide tools, my first bowl gouge from jamieson is in the mail. I do tend to apply some force while cutting, I need to pay more attention to that. This happened on 3 bowls, all were green.
 
Joined
Jul 5, 2016
Messages
469
Likes
244
Location
San Antonio, TX
The Nova jaws I have are not dovetail or straight
This drawing is a bit exaggerated
For a rough turned bowl the tenon should be 2.5" in diameter.

If you put a dovetail in these jaws the grip will be on the wide part of the dovetail and the tenon can slide up in th jaws until it hits the lip. Then it will likely break out.

View attachment 20848

The idea is to make a tiny groove for the lip at the top of the jaws to lock into

That is correct, clamping down, it is not true dovetail, expansion wise it is as bill said, dovetailed and I've used both. I think it is a combination, I'm not matching the shape of the jaws and overdoing the side of the walls, and as John said, I'm making forced, bigger cuts than I need because sometimes it is tearing the wood around the jaws and I have problems remounting it.

I will try to match the jaws better, and see if I can make lighter cuts.
 

hockenbery

Forum MVP
Beta Tester
TOTW Team
Joined
Apr 27, 2004
Messages
8,590
Likes
4,885
Location
Lakeland, Florida
Website
www.hockenberywoodturning.com
Tenons usually work much better for bowls.

You want to avoid Tear out on the tenon.
I cut all my tenons with a spindle gouge which leaves a clean surface.

Newer turners are often better off using a scraper or even a parting tool to make the tenon. It has to be sharp and the surface has to be clean. Can't have torn fibers in the tenon. Some soft woods you just have to use a spindle gouge.

You can use the point of a sharp skew flat on it side to make the little recess for the lip.
Make it a bit small.
The little groove for the lip can also be cut with a spindle gouge but it is a bit tricky
 
Joined
Oct 30, 2008
Messages
42
Likes
14
A bit off of the OT but my take on Nova jaws.
I do not cut a recess for the lip on the 50mm jaws when forming a tenon. On mine the "lip" is only 1-2mm deep and max 4mm long; I just cut the tenon straight as per the instructions and let the lip dig in. Probably no more than the depth of serrations on a serrated jaw? See pic.
As to sizing the tenon I go with 2-1/8 in green with the 50mm. The interior of the jaws are 1- 25/32 or about 1-3/4; this gives me about 3/8" for returning the tenon when dry. For dry I size about 1-7/8.
My items aren't artistic and I normally stay with the "thumb rule" of base = 1/3 diameter.

You may want to look at the 70mm jaws ...https://www.amazon.com/NOVA-JS70N-70mm-Chuck-Accessory/dp/B0064JJB9C
Many oops I see with tenons is that the tenon shears off. In wood area, the 70mm jaws increase the area to break off by 50%. They also give you a lot of flexibility in that you may rough with the 70's and when second turning true up and finish with the 50's if you want a smaller base. For larger items (10"?) you may rough with the 100's and finish with the 70's.
50MM SN2 Inside.JPG
 
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
2,959
Likes
1,906
Location
Brandon, MS
The Nova jaws I have are not dovetail or straight
This drawing is a bit exaggerated
For a rough turned bowl the tenon should be 2.5" in diameter.

If you put a dovetail in these jaws the grip will be on the wide part of the dovetail and the tenon can slide up in th jaws until it hits the lip. Then it will likely break out.

View attachment 20848

The idea is to make a tiny groove for the lip at the top of the jaws to lock into
Al the 100mm SN2 jaws ARE dovetail. They work very well in that configuration . The 75 and 50 do have the slight lip, but the 25mm jaws are straight and have no lip. All that said I do like my SN2's (all 3 of them). I had problems of losing bowls early on but all new turners do. The only real problem is for a punky tenon to break off and that is the wood and not tenon or jaws. By the way the expansion mode on Nova jaws are dovetail also
 

Bill Boehme

Administrator
Staff member
Beta Tester
TOTW Team
Joined
Jan 27, 2005
Messages
12,886
Likes
5,169
Location
Dalworthington Gardens, TX
Website
pbase.com
That is correct, clamping down, it is not true dovetail, expansion wise it is as bill said, dovetailed and I've used both. I think it is a combination, I'm not matching the shape of the jaws and overdoing the side of the walls, and as John said, I'm making forced, bigger cuts than I need because sometimes it is tearing the wood around the jaws and I have problems remounting it.

I will try to match the jaws better, and see if I can make lighter cuts.

I think that you might be going through what every beginner goes through where you are tensed up and dreading the next monumental catch from Hell that rips the blank out of the chuck. The path to not getting catches includes the following:
  • Height of the tool rest
  • Are you familiar with The A-B-C steps (anchor, bevel, cut)?
  • How the tool meets the wood
  • How to use your body to control the tool.
  • Make sure that your tools are razor sharp. You said that you are using carbide tools. Carbide gets dull ... a lot faster than many beginners realize. If you are using Easy Wood carbide tools, they get dull really fast in my experience. Trying to cut with a dull tool by increasing tool pressure on the wood is a recipe for disaster.
  • Don't get tense. I know, it's easy for me to say. :D But, don't despair ... things will click and the light bulb will come on. :)
Several members of this forum have videos that can help you get over some of the common difficulties.
 
Back
Top